Monday, May 14, 2012

Customize Your Floor - Part I - Hand-Distressed Surfaces


   
Last week Carlisle celebrated the Grand Opening of its Chicago Showroom. We had a designer stop by and meet with our National Sales Director Chris Sy.  Her comment – “finally someone who makes wood floors interesting”. So in this next three part series we are going to discuss some of the most popular ways that we do this - hand-distressing techniques, patterns and custom finishes.

Today we will take a look at Hand-Distressed surfaces, a design option we have offered to our clients for well over 10 years. What started out as Hand-Scraped Edges on 20” wide pine boards to give it a more authentic look, has evolved and distressing your floor is no longer done exclusively for the purpose of aging your floor in fact some of the most modern homes today have a distressed floor.

So let’s take a moment to understand all the options understand their historical significance and conclude with some tips from the experts if you are looking for a Hand-Distressed Floor.


The distressing that started it all – literally. Back when the first homes were being built, settlers lacked the modern manufacturing equipment we have today. Naturally when boards were sawn from the original Eastern White Pine stands they were not straight. So in order to install the boards they had to be hand-scraped down the edges to make them fit. This combined with years of wear resulted in a unique distressed look. When you look down the length of a room you would notice that the boards had a sculpted look down the sides and no board was 100% smooth or straight.

Today this look is recreated using an Eased or Beveled Edge, but it is not very authentic. After all, an Eased or Beveled edge is straight all the way down. At Carlisle we have a team of experienced craftsman who use specially designed hand planers and they slowly and methodically sculpt the sides of the boards so we create intermittent marks down the edge of the boards.

Benefits ~ Give your Floor an Older Look, Highlight the Wider Planks

Carlisle Design Tip ~ Don’t use a board narrowed than 11” with this floor or it will look very “busy”.


Hit or Miss Surface

The hit or miss surface is also meant to replicate the floors of our forefathers. Back in the day sawmills were predominantly found along waterways, this is how timbers were moved from place to place. And when the big Eastern White Pine logs showed up they were sawn by these mills. Again lacking the modern manufacturing equipment of today as the boards went through the saw it would never lay perfectly flat and the circular kerf marks would still be present when the boards came out the other end. Today clients want to replicate this look because it can make a new floor look much older and many clients can create an antique floor for half the price or more of a true Antique Reclaimed floor. This look is exclusively available on our Eastern White Pine floors but read on to learn about our Watermill texture for hardwoods.

Benefits ~ Save Money, Create an Antique Looking Floor

Carlisle Design Tip: Combine this with Hand-Scraped Edges for the ultimate restoration quality Eastern White Pine floor!



Watermill

After many years of offering our Hit or Miss surface on Eastern White Pine we found that clients wanted to recreate this look on our Wide Plank Hardwood floors like Walnut, Hickory and White Oak. In order to do this we had to add a few steps. Why? Eastern White Pine is a naturally soft wood so it accepts the hit or miss marks pretty naturally with almost no work required after milling. But with hardwood floors they are naturally much harder so boards that just have the hit or miss marks are very rough and quite frankly unsuitable for a floor. So after months of research and testing we uncovered a way to give our Hardwoods the look using a combination of our hand-distressing techniques. It creates the perfect balance of character and texture.

Benefits ~ Create an authentic Pine look with a Hardwood floor

Carlisle Design Tip: Avoid light finishes, Watermill looks best with medium tones stains to accentuate the mill marks but still allow the natural wood to come through.




Brushed Surface

The term “Brushed” is slightly new in the market, most designers know it as “wire brushed” but we recently discovered that there are many disadvantages to using a “wire brush” on a wood floor. This type of texture was too rough on the boards. It would tear the grain and present problems with the look and finishing. So our team worked for months to design a revolutionary new brushing technique.

After months of research our Brushed Surface was born. Using bristle brushed specially designed for Carlisle, containing over 250 fine bristles, these tools are brushed down the length of the board and create a stunning but subtle texture that our clients just love!

Benefits ~ Use a custom texture but avoid a rustic look, accentuate the beautiful grain of a White Oak or Walnut.


Carlisle Design Tip: Consider using a light finish on White Oak or Hickory or a natural finish on darker wood like Walnut. This will help show off the beautiful brushed surface so much better.

Footworn Surface

The term “footworn” is meant to conjure up images of the original Pine floors. Floors that has been walked on for centuries and have a beautiful worn feel that can’t be recreated – until now. Much like our Brushed Surface, our Footworn Surface gives clients the luxury of designing their floor with a hand-distressed surface but avoiding a really rustic look. You see the Footworn Surface is meant to sculpt the edges of the boards, the face of the boards and then gently hand-sand every little crevice to make the distressing very subtle.

Benefits ~ Subtle Distressing for formal or rustic style floors.

Carlisle Design Tip: The Footworn surface looks best on wider boards, anything less than 6-7” will look very busy.

Other Customer Surfaces

If the surface textures noted above don’t quite create the look a customer wants, then Carlisle also offers its clients the option to create a custom surface! Since every floor is hand-made and hand-distressed to order client truly get to pick the level of distressing they want. Here’s some examples



This customer wanted didn’t just want the Hand-Scraped Edges for her home, she wanted the entire floor done that way, but the Footworn Surface was too subtle, so we used a technique called Hand-Planed Surface and Edges.


This customer wanted to create a very rustic look for their lodge in Colorado. The Footworn surface was too subtle so we created a Hand-Scraped Face and Edge for this Hickory floor.

If you are in the market for a hand-distressed floor here a few tips:

1) Find out if the scraping is done by hand or a machine. Scraping done by hand is much authentic, scraping or distressing done by machine is repetitive and will result in a noticeable pattern of distressing in your floor.

2) Get samples! We invest in photograph to give our clients a general guide as to the appearance of the surfaces we can create. But nothing beats seeing the real thing in person. So call for samples or visit our showroom.

3) Make sure you understand the finish being used on your floor and what that means to the long term preservation of the hand-distressed surface. Many finishes require sanding in order to recoat the finish, this will eventually take away the hand-distressed surface. Carlisle can provide finishes with your floor that don’t need to be sanded to recoat so your floor stays the way you want it.

In the next segment we will discuss the custom patterns available. Whether you want to do your entire house, an formal entry or an elegant great room we have some great ideas for you!

Contributed by
Shanon Sterrett
Carlisle Wide Plank Floors
http://www.wideplankflooring.com/
(800) 595-9663

Carlisle Wide Plank Floors is the premier supplier of Wide Plank Floors in the world offering Hardwood, Pine and Reclaimed wood choices. Every floor is made to order in New Hampshire.

Showrooms locations in New York, NY, Chicago, IL, Washington, DC, Stoddard, NH , and Denver, CO

Superior Woodcraft is a local custom cabinet maker from Doylestown, Pa - the heart of Bucks County.


Source:
Superior Woodcraft, Inc.
Superior Woodcraft Blog
      


Friday, April 13, 2012

Part III - 10 Things You Need to Know About Wood Floors

     
In Part I of our series Radiant Heat and wood floors we learned about different type of radiant heat systems. In Part II we learned about engineered vs solid wood floors. In our final segment, we will talk about the 10 things to look for when considering wood floors for your home, especially if you are considering radiant heat, and why investing in quality can save you money and headaches down the road.


What you need to know ~ Solid Wood Floors 

Click here  to learn more about what makes a solid wood floor stable.

Use the cheat sheet below to guide you to what make makes a solid wood floor stable

• Location of where the trees grew that will produce your floor

• What area of the tree was used to harvest your boards 

• Average size/age of the timbers that the boards are cut from

• How the wood is dried

• Is it air dried and if so how long

• Is it kiln dried, if so, is it done per order, for how long and at what temperature

• What is the moisture content of the wood when you get it

• Where is the wood floor made/milled

• How are the boards selected when being crafted into a floor

• The quality control measures in place during the making of your floor, such as checking for moisture content and the kiln drying temperature

• How much heartwood will be in the board

• The overall milling process, how straight and consistent will the thickness of the planks be throughout the entire floor

• What characteristics are used to determine the grade of the floor

What you need to know ~ Engineered Wood Floors

Click here  to learn more about the characteristics that make a great engineered wood floor. In addition to knowing everything as if you were getting a solid wood floor, you also need to know:

• What is the materials are used to make the backing of the floor 

• How many layers of backing are used

• How thick is the wear layer on top

• What is the average width

• What is the average length

• How many times can I refinish the floor

• What are the glue products used

Why are these things important?

When thinking about a wood floor it is easy to just focus on the grain or the color, those characteristics have little to do with the overall stability of your floor. Using old mature timbers is the first step. The older the tree, the more that board has heartwood and vertical grain – two characteristics that help with stability on radiant heat.


Working with a company that invests in slow and proper drying steps is the next step because old timbers have moisture built up in them over 80+ years. Most wood is simply kiln dried to 8% in 2-3 weeks, but this shocks the wood and makes it less stable. The proper way to dry the wood is 3-6 months process (depending on species) called “seasoning” the wood, this allows the boards to sit outside for a period of time reduce moisture levels, and then once it reaches 13-18% the wood goes into a small batch moisture reduction kiln which will bring the moisture content down to 7-9%. By drying the wood more slowly it is more resilient on the surface and more stable resulting in smaller gaps and less movement over the life of the floor.

Having your floor made all at one time is an excellent way to not only get a great look but get consistent quality boards in moisture content, milling quality, board thickness and grading.

Grading refers to the amount of color variation and character you can expect in your floor. It's definitely a good idea to ask about the grading standards used for the floor you are considering. Common lumber grades account for the number of knots in a floor, but not always for how sound the character is, low quality wood flooring can have loose knots which will actually “pop out” before, during or after installation on a radiant heat system. Using old wood that is properly dried and milled to order can eliminate this concern.

When considering an engineered floor consider that the quality of the floor is only as good as the components that went into it. Whether you are using a solid or engineered wood you have to make sure you have the best materials. On the top, in the wear layer, you want at least 3/16” wear layer, this matches the wear layer of a solid wood floor and thus ensures that it will last as long as a solid wood floor. Be cautious of the wear layer on other engineered floors which may only be 3-5 sheets of paper thick. This means your floors cannot be refinished and is only a temporary floor covering.

When considering engineered floor pay careful attention to the backing of the boards. This should always be thicker than the top layer, if the top and back layer are the same thickness you will lose stability in the plank. Ideally the best material for the backing is Baltic Birch; when you look at the cross section of the board you should see multiple layers also called a “ply”. 9-12 layers is preferable over 2-4 layers, again more layers enhances the stability.

It is also important to pay attention to the widths and lengths of your floor. Did you know that most Engineered floors average about 4” wide and only 3’ long. Check out this example of wide plank engineered next to a standard engineered floor…what do you notice?



Did you notice the standard engineered floor has:

* Over 100% more seams

* Significantly More color variation making the floor look busy

* Some boards less than 1’ long

* Very narrow planks

The dimensions of your boards have a dramatic impact on the look of the floor.

Lastly, for anyone who wants a healthy home check you need to research the adhesive/glue products used to laminate the flooring layers together. Formaldehyde and Phenolic Free glues are ideal so there is no off-gassing or harmful chemicals going into your home. Most engineered flooring is made outside the USA where health regulations may not be enforced as they are in the USA, so be sure and ask where the floor is made.

To learn about Carlisle Wide Plank Floors Engineered wood click here
Disclaimer

The information used here is provided as general guidelines only.  Consult your wood flooring expert for specific information.

Contributed by:

Shanon Sterrett
Carlisle Wide Plank Floors
http://www.wideplankflooring.com/
(800) 595-9663

Carlisle Wide Plank Floors is the premier supplier of Wide Plank Floors in the world offering Hardwood, Pine and Reclaimed wood choices. Every floor is made to order in New Hampshire.

Showrooms locations in New York, NY, Chicago, IL, Washington, DC , Stoddard, NH, and Denver, CO
 
Superior Woodcraft is a local custom cabinet maker from Doylestown, Pa - the heart of Bucks County.

Source:
Superior Woodcraft, Inc.
Superior Woodcraft Blog
     

Tuesday, April 10, 2012

Eco-friendly Fashions For Your Home

   
Melissa Magee of WPVI, ABC 6 Philadelphia visits with our friend and fellow blog contributor Kat Robbins of Kat Robbins Interiors.

Join Melissa and Kat and hear what they say about making your home fashionable and eco-friendly.

Kat Robbins Interiors
610-291-4220
Wayne, PA 19087
http://www.krinteriors.com/

Superior Woodcraft is a local custom cabinet maker from Doylestown, Pa - the heart of Bucks County.

Source:
Superior Woodcraft, Inc.
Superior Woodcraft Blog

Friday, April 6, 2012

Is Your Bedroom Supporting Good Health?

    
I’ve read scores of articles about making your bedroom a sanctuary, blah blah blah. We all know it should be a peaceful color, it’s bad to watch TV in there and we should keep pets, kids and laptops out of our beds. Are there other factors that could contribute to good health and good sleep?


What’s often overlooked are the chemicals that we are exposed to during sleep. Traditionally made mattresses contain a lot of bad stuff. Since the 1960’s, companies have been manufacturing them with petro chemicals, formaldehyde and other toxins. A memory foam mattress was tested by an Atlanta based lab and the results revealed 61 chemicals, including benzene and napthalene. There isn’t data linking mattresses to getting sick, but we do know that none of these substances enhance health and many are carcinogenic.

What can you do to make your 8 hours even more life sustaining? Natural Latex mattresses are a great alternative. They use the same concept as memory foam, but use a natural, harmless component: rubber. The cost is typically higher than a traditional or foam product, but well worth it if you are interested in lowering your exposure to toxins.

Formaldehyde free sheets are another way to limit exposure. We often see “organic” cotton sheets advertised and they are great, but they can still be treated with formaldehyde after the weaving process. A google search of “formaldehyde free sheets” will give you some options on truly natural bedding.

Lastly, clean air is a must for restful sleep. If you suffer from allergies, a portable air purifier can do wonders for your health. We aren’t always in control of the air we breath and what we are exposed to, but your hours of sleep in your private retreat are totally within your reach to influence. In conjunction with houseplants and other methods to clean your indoor air, consider an air purifier if allergies plague you.

Wishing you a good (and healthy) night’s sleep.

This article was submitted by Kathryn Robbins of Kat Robbins Interiors. Kat Robbins is a residential interior designer with a focus on sustainability and healthy home environments.


Kat Robbins Interiors
610-291-4220
Wayne, PA 19087
http://www.krinteriors.com/

Superior Woodcraft is a local custom cabinet maker from Doylestown, Pa - the heart of Bucks County.

Source:
Superior Woodcraft, Inc.
Superior Woodcraft Blog

Monday, April 2, 2012

Good Things Come in Small Packages





Co-Designers

Superior Woodcraft
Amanda Bertele

Schlichter Tile & Marble Contractors
Kelly DeJong



This was a small powder room with big problems. Most notably, a door that only opened part-way before it hit the toilet. In order the gain entry, you had to squeeze through between the half-open door and vanity. The room itself was furnished with outdated fixtures, a broken light, a rusty radiater cover and a badly stained floor. In addition, a big notch was cut into the door casing to fit the laminate counter top, sections of plaster were cracked and peeling, and the door lock was broken. There was a lot to be done for such a small space.


Renovations began with a full-scale tear-out of all fixtures… everything, including the window and door casing were ripped out. Only the floor was left intact, which Schlichter Tile & Marble Contractors treated with an acid wash to remove years of grime off the old tile and grout, leaving us with what looked like a brand new floor.


Meanwhile, the folks at Superior Woodcraft were building the custom cabinet featuring solid red oak tapered legs, a large open shelf below, a pair of drawers and valance apron detail. Finishers lightly distressed the cabinet, then applied a stain and rag-wiped glaze. A matching frame was also made for a beveled mirror to hang above. The tapered legs were skillfully notched to mend tight with the cabinet and accept extensions for scribe so the installer could fit it neatly between the two walls. With the vanity installed, Schlichter Tile & Marble Contractors could template and fabricate the counter top; a natural stone known as Cambrian Black with an antique finish. The front edge is artfully chiseled by hand for a primitive effect, complimenting the distressed cabinet. The entire wall above the counter was then tiled with hand-made tiles from American Firebrand, in diamond pattern with 3 custom glaze colors.

Next, the window and door casement was replaced with a more substantial molding custom fabricated from 5/4 lumber with a simple eased edge. This gives the door and window more gravity without adding more detail. A 6” high header above the door is extended to the back wall to provide mounting for the flat track sliding door hardware.

At this point, the walls were still in bad shape. Holes in the plaster from tear-out, holes in the ceiling for light fixtures and a new vent, holes in the wall for new switches and outlets.. all needed to be addressed. Once patched, Randy Ruth from Limeworks started on the first of 3 layers for a traditional Tadelakt plaster finish. First, a layer of TAKCOAT™ over the entire area to cover seams and provide proper surface. Next, he applied a custom blended scratch and finish coat consisting of Ecologic® Mortar and Natural Hydraulic Lime. The final layer is carefully burnished with a polished stone and sealed, creating a unique finish that is as amazing to touch as it is to look at, with a color reminiscent of antique buckskin. For progress pix of the plaster application, visit the limeworks blog:

With the walls complete, the new plumbing fixtures can be installed. Weinstein Supply in Allentown, PA provided the Toto Eco Promenade toilet in Colonial white with soft-close seat, a pewter Moen widespread faucet. The sink is hand-made, and just small enough to allow us to reduce the depth of the cabinet and counter top to give us an extra inch or two of floor space. Hung above the vanity are a pair of custom pendant lights made from reclaimed glass insulators and an old bit old chain.

The flat track hardware is mounted on the large header above the door, inside the room, and now allows full access. A pair of wheels connected to iron straps bolt though the door, and glide freely along the track. A set of antique pulls from Architectural Antiques in Bedminster, PA complete the installation.

With construction near completion, the staging can begin. Original pastels by Susan Williamson will be hung on the walls, a hand-crafted mirror framed with reclaimed roofing shims by Melissa Ross and sculptures from local artist Justin Long are to be displayed.

This area will also serve as the public restroom while the designer house is open to the public. Dorinda Rumbold of Wash Tyme is generously donating her hand made soap for guests to enjoy. This is no ordinary soap; its primary ingredient, glycerin, is a natural byproduct from the process of converting used vegetable oil into biodiesel. Local restaurants provide the used vegetable oil that is converted by Dorinda’s husband, Andrew, of Bucks County Freedom Fuel. The fuel can be used to operate farm equipment including trucks and tractors, as well as added to home heating oil to further reduce our dependency on foreign oil and offset the risk of domestic fuel production. Wash Tyme soap can be used for countless cleaning tasks inside and outside the home, contains no phosphates and has no chemicals or detergents added.

Superior Woodcraft is a local custom cabinet maker from Doylestown, Pa - the heart of Bucks County.


Source:
Superior Woodcraft, Inc.
Superior Woodcraft Blog


From Ugly Duckling to Elegant Swan

     


   
Co-Designers

Superior Woodcraft, Inc.
Amanda Bertele


Schlichter Tile & Marble Contractors
Kelly DeJong


If the wall-to-wall pink tile wasn’t bad enough, there was the blue toilet, tub and sink. But wait, there’s more: the room is only 4-1/2 foot wide (a standard tub is 5 foot long!) by 6-1/2 foot long. This bath was too small and too ugly, not to mention the issues with an oversized heater, low ceiling, thin walls and protruding pipes.

Kelly and Amanda envisioned a clean, contemporary, new space. The first step was to gut the entire room down to bare studs. At this point, we discovered one interior wall was too thin to even fit an outlet, much less the shower fixtures, so the entire wall was packed out, along with extending the door jamb and installing new door casing.

Schlichter tiled the floor with natural limestone and installed a custom-fabricated limestone threshold. It took some searching, but a 4-1/2 foot tub was finally found through Weinstein Supply. The walls were tiled with large 12 x 24 Neostile ‘Chalk’ in a running bond on all four walls. The matte finish and large size of the wall tile lend to the minimalist affect and help the room feel a little larger.

Above the wall tile lies a border of unique hand-made tiles. The curve of the pattern creating a subtle wave. Another piece of solid limestone set above the ties it all together.

In the old bath, a portion of the vent pipe for the plumbing was exposed – merely covered with wallpaper. A simple millwork design was devised to cover this flaw, with part of the molding wrapping the remaining walls outside the shower and trimming the top of the door casing. All trim and walls are painted the same, soft white to match the wall tile in keeping with the minimalist theme.

The vanity is a small, contemporary, cantilevered cabinet of natural, sequence-matched Black Limba. The Decolav sink sits on the vanity, with no counter top. The shelves are made from the same Black Limba material and mounted with modern brackets.

The finished space is contemporary and kid friendly with finishes and fixtures that are easy to maintain. As the kids grow, the sophisticated design will grown with them, providing a clean, warm and inviting bath for many years to come.


Room Resources:

Renovation and Installation by - Schlichter Tile & Marble Contractors

Custom Cabinet and Shelves  - Superior Woodcraft, Inc

Plumbing Fixtures provided by -Weinstein Supply

Wall tile provided by - Tile Gallery

Decorative trim tile designed and hand-made by -  American Firebrand

Paintings by - Kary Coke


Superior Woodcraft is a local custom cabinet maker from Doylestown, Pa - the heart of Bucks County.

Source:
Superior Woodcraft, Inc.



Friday, March 30, 2012

PART II: Engineered versus Solid Wood Floors

   
In Part I of Radiant Heat and wood floors we learned about two common types of radiant heat – hydronic and electric. It is often assumed that if you are installing a wood floor to a radiant heat subfloor you have to use engineered wood because it is more stable, and solid wood if often ruled out. But why is that the case?


In Part II we are going to address this question, and provide the information you need to differentiate between an engineered wood floors and a solid wood floor, understand the benefits or disadvantages of each, and understand the quality characteristics you should consider when considering either one.

Why the debate about solid vs. engineered?

It is a common misconception that if you are installing radiant heat in your floor you can’t use wood floor or you are limited to using an engineered wood product. Many assume that the heat of the radiant heat system is too much for the wood floors to bear. When in fact it is not HEAT that makes wood move but MOISTURE. Radiant Heats systems, when designed properly and with the right regulatory controls in place, can actually provide one of the most consistent heat sources in a home, thereby controlling moisture.

Another reason for the misconception is that there is a prevalence of poor quality solid wood floor options on the market. The cutting methods of the tree, drying process and grading standards make these floors unsuitable for installation on radiant heat. Later in this segment you will learn what quality factors to consider when choosing wood floor.

ENGINEERED and SOLID – What is the difference?

Solid wood floors, as the name implies, are made from just one solid piece of wood. Engineered wood floors refer to a wood floor covering that is constructed from multiple layers of wood. It consists of wood backing made up of 3-12 thin sheets of fabricated wood (think plywood), then a layer of solid wood is glued on the top. The thickness of the backing will determine the floors overall stability, the thickness of the solid wood on top will determine the wear layer and how long your floor lasts.


ADVANTAGES/DISADVANTAGES OF EACH

There are advantages and disadvantages to each construction type, keep in mind those listed below all vary depending on the quality of the wood and the manufacturer.

ENGINEERED WOOD FLOOR

Advantages

• May be slightly more stable

• May be slightly more resistant to movement especially during times of extreme moisture/climate change

• May show slightly smaller and fewer gaps than a solid wood floor

Disadvantages

• May wear down quicker increasing your overall cost of ownership due to refinishing and/or replacement when compared to a solid wood floor

• Most engineered floors can only be refinished once, some can never be refinished before they need to be replaced

• The average length of an engineered floor is about 3’ long.



• The average length of a solid wood for example from Carlisle is 7-11’ long. Longer lengths have a dramatic impact on the overall look.



• The quality of the fabricated wood backing can compromise the stability of the floor

• The thickness of the fabricated wood backing can compromise the stability of the floor

• There are more chemical components to an engineered floor due to the gluing process of the backing and the top wood layer

• Most engineered floors are made in “lots” so if you want more flooring months or years later you may not be able to get one that matches

• Most engineered floors are only available up to 5” wide, and only in one width

• Very hard to get if you want a distressed look or if you like character like knots in your floor

• Rarely available unfinished

SOLID WOOD FLOOR

Advantages

• Will last longer due to the thicker wear layer

• Can be refinished more often than engineered wood floors

• Will be crafted in longer average lengths

• Available in wider widths

• More grading capabilities to achieve a formal or rustic look

Disadvantages

• May be slightly less stable than engineered depending on the humidity change in and outside your home

• May show slightly larger gaps

QUALITY

The overall quality of the solid or engineered product you are considering will determine if it is suitable for your radiant heat system. Don’t assume that just because it is an engineered wood floor that it is going to be stable, and likewise don’t assume just because it is a solid wood floor it will not be stable.

In part III of this series we will identify the critical components that will determine the stability and performance of your wood floor whether it is solid or engineered.

Disclaimer

The stability of a wood floor is not black and white, so not all engineered floors perform the same way nor do all solid wood floors perform the same way. Wood, be it solid or engineered, is a natural product and responds to the climate changes in and outside your home. The nature of that “response” can be mitigated by investing in quality. When selecting a wood floor it is important to work with an expert that understand not just the wood floor you are interested in but the technical knowledge about radiant heat systems, installation, solid and engineered wood, and wood in general.

Contributed by

Shanon Sterrett
Carlisle Wide Plank Floors
http://www.wideplankflooring.com/
(800) 595-9663



Carlisle Wide Plank Floors is the premier supplier of Wide Plank Floors in the world offering Hardwood, Pine and Reclaimed wood choices. Every floor is made per order in New Hampshire.


Showrooms locations in New York, NY, Chicago, IL  , Washington, DC  Stoddard, NH ,  Denver, CO
Superior Woodcraft is a local provider of custom made cabinetry and is located in Doylestown, Bucks County, PA.

Related Article:

PART I: Radiant Heat and Wood Floors




Source:
Superior Woodcraft, Inc.
Superior Woodcraft Blog